Christine's Tips on Raising Your Puppy

Last modified: June 2, 2002 

(Visit our puppies Cooper , K'Ehleyr, and Lola)


Thanks to all the resources available to me (including tons of web pages!) I've collected and used successfully a lot of great information. Here are some tips that I can share with you about things that worked, and things that didn't.

What worked

Toys, toys, and more toys
This really saves your furniture and anything else you want to protect from getting chewed. I had been armed with the Bitter Apple product which is highly recommended for keeping your dogs from chewing stuff they shouldn't be chewing on. However, he had so many toys to play with that it never really became a problem. I only had to used the Bitter Apple a couple times, but it does work well.

The toys Cooper likes best are woobies (soft toys) with squeakers in them, braided ropes, frisbees. Sometimes it takes time for them to grow into a particular toy. He started out liking just the soft squeaky toys, then as he got older started appreciating the Kong, Buster Cube, and other more "sophisticated" toys.

Mail-order
Definitely do mail-order if possible. You can save so much money especially at the beginning when you have to buy a ton of stuff. The ones I've ordered from are:

Check out the rec.pets.dogs Resource FAQ for a full list of mail-order companies and their phone #s.

Housebreaking
Crate training is best-- most everyone says that these days. We didn't do full-blown crate training because we wanted our pup to have a little more room, but as a result he didn't get housetrained as fast as we would have liked. We're in a house with a yard, and we wanted him to eliminate outside in a specific area. He was pretty good for the most part, but when he was feeling lazy he would just go in the house. So anyway, the miracle cure-- at least it's an interesting experiment to try. It worked with two of my dogs now, so there must be something to it. Go on vacation! Take your dog with you-- somewhere in nature where they either have to or prefer to eliminate outside. For the first dog we vacationed in the desert (with a rented motorhome) for a week, and for the second dog we were in a lakeside cabin for just over a week. When we got back, the dog was totally housebroken.

As for what else we did for house-breaking, while we were home we set up an exercise pen in the kitchen attached to an open crate. At night we kept the pup in a closed crate in the bedroom. When we weren't home we kept the pup in 2 exercise pens linked together on the patio in the backyard (with a crate in it). We also put a kid's hard plastic wading pool in there for those hot days (it turns out our pup pees in it), and also a piece of cardboard primed with housebreaking drops (and weighted down with bricks) for when he needs to go. We tried to put part of the ex-pen over a dirt area instead of using cardboard but he ended up digging so that was the end of that idea. By the way, for digging the product 'No-Dig' seems to work sometimes.

Flea and tick control
Advantage! This is a product that you put on your dog topically (in one or two areas depending on their size) that spreads out over their whole body and kills fleas for a month. It's supposed to be effective even if you bathe them, although they recommend that you don't bathe them *too* often. It's supposed to be totally safe for you and your dog. It's actually approved now for puppies over 6 weeks of age (instead of having to wait until they are 4 months). It's available at your vet and sometimes at local pet stores. Here's their web site.

If you want tick control as well, use what we now use, which is Frontline. It's supposed to stay on longer in water than the other products, which is important for us since we take Coop swimming quite a bit.

Itch control/Skin-coat improvement, and the Raw Diet
Lipiderm fish oil capsules-- I got the gel capsules, and it's cheaper to get it mail-order. It really helped a lot with Cooper's itching (from allergies to his food or occasional flea bites), but a great benefit of using it is that it provides the fatty acids that help with their skin and coat.

Update: Sometime in 2001, we switched our dogs to a raw diet, and that was the end of the food allergies for Cooper.  For more info,  check out the sites and books:

Before switching completely, we fed premium kibble, then premium kibble with raw meat and supplements mixed in, then we made the leap to raw completely.  It's really not that hard, and there is a lot of help available through these books and in raw diet groups on the internet.

What didn't work

Commercial non-natural dog foods
I even tried the super-premium ones and the ones sold at my vet, but they all gave poor Cooper diarrhea, made him itch, or made him vomit. After doing some research on this subject it seems that most of these foods contain products that are not consistent between batches, and a lot of them have ingredients that cause allergies-- it's actually pretty gross if you read about it.

We now feed our dogs a raw diet (see above).  However, before we "graduated" to that we fed premium dog food made of human-grade ingredients.  Some good ones that we liked:

Which one you use really depends on your dog-- maybe they like one better than the other, or they have better stools on it.  We switched between kibbles every 6 months because it has been recommended by some that you have a 6-month rotation on kibble, as a chance to try something new, but also so they don't build up an allergic reaction to certain ingredients in the dog food.

Just a point of reference-- Cooper seems to have "grown out" of his allergies since he got older-- either that or the natural foods have worked all that out of his system. Either way, we're quite pleased.

Here's a couple web pages that list other dog food companies:

Some rawhide chews

Cooper has the tendency to swallow the biggest pieces he can, so any bone-toy that is meant to be chewed and eventually eaten is a bad thing for him. Not to mention that some of these things have ingredients that he's allergic to. The big one-piece rawhide bones are okay, but anything that can be broken into smaller pieces are bad-bad-bad. Things like pig ears are pretty good, although some say that pig ears are very fatty and contain too many preservatives. Just in case, I reduced the amount I give him by only giving one after a bath, so he basically gets one every 2-4 weeks. It also helps to get him looking forward to the bath.

Another type of chew I'm going to get for Cooper is the big Galileo bone made by Nylabone. It isn't supposed to break into small pieces.

Actually, a terrific chew to get is called a Bully stick by Red Barn. You can get them through the Red Barn Guy.  My guys love it, and it is much healthier than the other stuff.  He also sells some filled bones which they love.

Training and Classes

We started training Cooper from the day we got him, although we didn't expect him to retain what he learned or do things right all the time. We tried to treat it as positive playtime, and if he got it, great! If not, that was okay too. He had most of the basics down by the time he went to puppy kindergarten at 11 weeks of age (having gotten two sets of shots already). There are two schools of thought on taking your pup to classes early, mainly health-related. Some people, particularly vets, will warn you to stay away from classes before the dog is 4 months of age, because of the risk of catching disease. Although this is great from a health standpoint, the other school of thought says that the problem with doing this is that you lose a lot of socialization that is absolutely crucial for a pup. A lot of the books I read say that the experiences a dog has before 4 months of age are particularly important to its development and "outlook" on life. If it has not been around other dogs, it may become dog-shy or dog-aggressive, etc...

Because of this, we tried to safely expose Cooper to as much as possible before 4 months of age. We took him to the beach, swimming, hiking, puppy kindergarten, to stores where there were a lot of people, got him used to loud things like the vacuum cleaner... Unfortunately we tried to get him used to the garbage truck and he was so traumatized by that, to this day he is afraid of garbage trucks. Oh well.

Puppy kindergarten was great for him. One of the reasons we took him as soon as we possibly could, was that we had kept him isolated from other dogs for 2 weeks after we got him. During that time, he had forgotten how to play with other puppies! He was terrified when at 10 1/2 weeks we took him to see his littermates. That was the clincher-- he went to puppy school and has been fine ever since. Besides the socialization it also gave him an excellent foundation for more serious training later.

Supplies

We bought a lot of supplies before we got Cooper, but there were things that we kept realizing we needed to get afterwards. It would have been nice to get most of them at the same time, because if you mail-order from Foster & Smith they don't charge shipping over a certain order amount.

So here's a list of stuff that we got and used, and hopefully it will be useful to someone out there.
Dog Beds
  • the best dog bed/rug that we've found is made of Polyfleece - I can't believe how much our dogs love it.
Collar/leads
  • flat adjustable buckle collar 
  • 6' leather lead (a lot of training places want you to have leather leads) 
  • Flexi-lead or long-lead if you want to do some recall training 
  • Gentle Leader head collar (info at www.gentleleader.com), but we buy ours at dogstuff.com. This is great if you have a dog that pulls, or perhaps if you want to keep your puppy from learning how to pull. With it, you can practically walk your dog with a fishing line.
ID
  • id tag (Boomerang tags makes a good one)
  • microchip implant - we did this at 4 months at the vet 
  • license - after the rabies shot 
Dishes
  • portable canvas folding dish for those hikes 
  • stainless steel cage cups (We use these to hang in the crate when he's in there. We also hang it on his ex-pen or outside his wire crate when he's not in the crate so that his food and water are raised. Keeps the ants off the food and makes it more comfortable for him to eat, too. 
  • regular stainless steel dishes 
Stain/Housebreaking
  • Petzorb to absorb mess - this stuff is kind of cool. You sprinkle it on the liquid, and it sucks it all up into the crystals. Then you scoop it up and throw it away. Follow up with the enzyme cleaner. 
  • Simple Solution or Odor-Mute (this is the enzyme cleaner) - I've used both and also Nature's Miracle, but didn't like the Nature's Miracle much. Simple Solution is great for indoors, and Odor-Mute is great for outdoors
  • Odor-Mute for wherever your dog goes potty outside. It works really well - keeps the yard smelling fresh. 
  • Natures Miracle blacklight to find hidden stains. At first we resisted getting this, but we started getting concerned that there were spots that we may have missed cleaning. 
  • Scent drops for housebreaking. 
Crate/Pens
  • pet/baby gates 
  • ex-pen 
  • Deluxe vari-kennel crate 
  • collapsible metal crate 
Grooming
  • pet shampoo (we use Pure Pearl - smells wonderful)
  • dog toothbrush/paste 
  • slicker brush 
  • pin/bristle brush 
  • blunt-tipped trimmer for any trimming 
  • nail clippers (consider using a cordless Dremel for grinding nails if you don't like clipping)
  • ear cleaner 
  • cotton balls 
  • Advantage flea control 
Food/Supplements
  • See the food sections above
  • Heartgard Plus heartworm preventive medication 
Toys
Other
  • Natural Balance meat treats 
  • Space blanket and clips to attach to ex-pen for shade 
  • hard plastic wading pool 
  • poop bags 
  • "No Dig" 
  • Bitter Apple 

Resources

Books
The next two books I would definitely recommend reading before you get the pup just so you're prepared.

How To Raise A Puppy You Can Live With by Clarice Rutherford and David Neil

I love this book!  Everyone should read it.  :-)

Good Owners, Great Dogs by Brian Kilcommons

 This book was recommended by a lot of people on the net. It truly is very useful, and provides a lot of detail on all kinds of puppy-raising subjects as well as problem-solving. The tone of the book is light, so it's fun to read.

The Art of Raising a Puppy by Monks of New Skete

 This book is more serious in tone than the Kilcommons book, but it provides a lot of information into the development of the puppy and how you can influence it.

The Dog's Mind by Bruce Fogle,DVM

 This book addresses dog psychology. Very informative, but it's really just to give you an understanding of your dog-- not a training guide.

Ian Dunbar has some great books, too.  He started Sirius Puppy Training and knows what he's talking about. :-)

Your breeder
My breeder has been an invaluable source of support! When you're looking for your dog definitely consider the breeders as part of your decision-making process.

Your vet

General dog web pages and companies selling dog products

Golden Retriever specific pages

 

Send e-mail:
Christine Hsu

 

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